Let the resin become structure before you release it
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Course: Fabricate composite race-car parts with workshop discipline
Module: Laminate and consolidate without hiding defects
Estimated duration: 55 minutes
The skill in this lesson is restraint. You have finished the lay-up, the part looks like a part, and the temptation is to pull it from the mould so you can see the result. That is exactly when a composite can be ruined. Until the resin has cured far enough, the fibres are not yet being held in the structure you asked them to form. The laminate may have shape, but it does not yet have the hardness, toughness, or fibre adhesion you need before it can survive release, trimming, heat, or handling.
The rule is simple: cure fully before demolding, and only trim early when you are intentionally using the green stage for edge trimming. Do not confuse those two operations. Green trimming is a controlled cutting window. Demolding is a structural demand. The laminate may be firm enough for a knife and still too soft to pull, twist, pry, or support itself out of the mould.
The mechanism matters because cure is not drying. The resin changes chemically into the hard material that bonds to the reinforcement. The glossary definition in the bonded material describes cure as the process that changes resin into a hard and tough substance and causes it to adhere to the reinforcing fibres. That is the reason time and temperature matter so much. Before cure is complete, you are handling an unfinished chemical system, not merely a damp version of the final part.
You should think of the cure decision as four separate decisions, not one. First, is the laminate ready to be left alone without disturbing the fibre placement? Second, has it reached the green stage where selected edges can be cut without upsetting the laminate? Third, has it fully cured enough to release from the mould? Fourth, if the part or mould will later see elevated temperature, has the laminate and the mould been prepared for that temperature without trapped air becoming a damage source? Each decision has a different threshold. Treating them as one threshold is how good lay-up work gets lost at the end.
The basic cure discipline
Once the component has been fully laminated, leave it in the mould. For normal wet lay-up work, the bonded material gives a practical baseline: at least overnight, preferably 24 hours, and possibly longer when the ambient temperature is below the ideal working range. That guidance is deliberately conservative because the laminate is still changing. The part may look finished after gel, but appearance is a poor release criterion. The hand check matters: if the laminate still feels soft, give it more cure time or raise the workshop temperature in a controlled way.
That last phrase is important. Raising the workshop temperature is not the same thing as attacking the part with heat. Heat can reduce cure time, but the chassis-design source warns that curing is a critical stage because resins, especially polyester, can shrink or distort as they cure, and heat can increase distortion. It also notes that distortion is more likely in thicker sections than in thin shaped panels. So your cure plan must be matched to the laminate you actually made. A thin cosmetic panel, a thick stressed panel, a mould flange, and a reinforced rib area do not all tolerate shortcuts the same way.
The intermediate skill is to stop using the clock as your only instrument. The clock starts the decision. It does not finish it. Overnight may be enough in a warm, stable shop. Twenty-four hours may be the sensible minimum for a part you care about. Longer may be required when the shop is cold, the section is thick, or the resin system is moving slowly. If the part still feels soft, you have your answer. Wait.
There is a practical shop reason for keeping the part in the workshop too. The bonded material warns against moving a curing part into the home because the resin smell can linger. That is not just a joke in the source text. It is a reminder that cure management belongs in a controlled work area. You want a suitable temperature, ventilation appropriate to the materials you are using, and a setup where the part can sit undisturbed until the resin is ready.
Why release is harder than trimming
Release loads the laminate in ways that simple cutting does not. When you pry a part from a mould, you are asking the laminate to resist bending, local peeling, point loads at the edge, and sometimes sudden snap-through as the release finally happens. A part at the green stage has not earned that load yet. The bonded material states that the green stage is semi-hard, too soft to release from the mould, yet able to be cut without disrupting the laminate integrity. That sentence is the heart of this lesson.
Green trimming is useful because the laminate cuts more easily before full cure and creates less dust than later trimming. It is appropriate for overlapping edges, especially the spiky excess around the perimeter. You use a sharp blade and cut the overhang while the material is semi-hard. But you deliberately leave at least one overlapping edge so you have something to lever with when release time comes. If you trim every edge flush during the green stage, you may make the later release harder and risk having to pry against the finished surface or a fragile edge.
Demolding waits. A green laminate may accept a knife because the knife is a local cutting tool. That does not mean it can accept the global distortion of release. If you lift a green part, you can bend the fibre-resin network before it has locked into its final shape. You can disturb edges, imprint the surface, crack a gel coat, or build twist into a part that looked perfect in the mould. The damage may not announce itself loudly. It may show up as a warped panel, a flaked edge, a surface defect, or a part that never sits correctly against the car.
A useful rule for intermediate work is this: green trim only the waste, not the structure. If the edge is sacrificial overlap, the green stage can save time and dust. If the operation asks the part to carry itself, resist prying, hold a precise shape, or accept a power tool, you are no longer using the green stage for its proper purpose. You are gambling with an unfinished laminate.
The temperature side of cure
Cure time is temperature dependent. In normal workshop conditions, that means the same resin system can behave differently in the morning, at night, in summer, and in a cold garage. The bonded material says normal mouldings can often cure within a working day if suitable temperature is maintained, but it is often convenient to cure overnight. That is the shop rhythm you should build around. Finish the lay-up, organize the cure environment, and schedule release and final trimming for the next suitable window, not for the moment your curiosity peaks.
Elevated temperature raises the stakes. When a laminate is heated, any trapped bubbles heat too. The bonded material explains that bubbles expand and exert stress on the surrounding material. If they are near the surface, especially behind a gel coat, they can create enough pressure to burst and damage the surface. This turns earlier lay-up quality into later cure quality. Careful stippling and rolling are not just cosmetic habits. They reduce trapped air that could become a post-cure defect.
That connection is easy to miss. During lay-up, air bubbles look like a wet-laminate problem. During post-cure, they become a pressure problem. If you intend to use elevated temperature treatment, you must be more severe about consolidation during the lay-up. The source material specifically emphasizes conscientious stippling and rolling when elevated temperature will be used, and suggests considering a glass tissue layer behind the gel coat where appropriate to reduce bubbles adjacent to the gel coat. This lesson is not about teaching the whole lay-up method again, but the cure decision depends on that earlier work.
The mould has its own cure requirement. If elevated temperature treatment is done in-mould, the mould itself must first have been post-cured to at least that temperature. A mould that has not been stabilized can move, distort, or suffer damage when heated. The pre-preg and tooling discussion gives the same principle in another form: the mould has to cope with the intended cure temperature and must undergo at least one post-cure at that temperature, depending on what it is made from. For wet lay-up polyester moulds, the bonded material notes that some polyester resins can be pushed to 90 C or even 100 C, but that 90 C is a sensible maximum for a polyester-based mould, and the mould should be post-cured at that temperature if it will be used there.
Do not separate part cure from mould cure in your thinking. If the part is inside the mould and you heat the assembly, the mould is part of the cure system. If the mould moves, the part moves. If trapped air in the mould laminate expands, the mould can be damaged. If entrapped air was left in a wet lay-up mould, later heating can create damage. That is why the source material says great care must be exercised during lay-up of moulds that will later see elevated temperature, to remove entrapped air from the laminate.
Heat, exotherm, and the danger of rushing
The resin reaction generates heat of its own. The bonded material describes allowing time for the resin to gel and cool so chemically generated heat can dissipate, avoiding a laminate-damaging or even dangerous situation. You should take that seriously. Heat is not only something you add from outside. It can also build from the curing reaction, especially where there is more resin mass or thicker section.
This is why cure acceleration is not a free win. Adding heat can reduce cure time, but heat is also liable to increase distortion. Thick sections are more vulnerable to distortion than thin panels. Trapped bubbles expand when heated. Moulds need to be post-cured before they are used at elevated temperature. These are not separate cautions. They are the same system warning you that cure is a controlled process, not a race.
For intermediate fabrication, the safe habit is to let the laminate pass through gel and early cure without disturbance, allow heat from the reaction to dissipate, and only then consider any planned temperature increase that the resin system, mould, and part geometry can tolerate. If you are using a known resin schedule, follow it. If the bonded material available to you only supports ambient cure and cautious post-cure principles, do not invent your own aggressive schedule. The part may survive, but survival is not the standard. Dimensional stability and surface quality are the standard.
The release sequence
Before you release, inspect the part while it is still supported by the mould. The question is not whether you are impatient. The question is whether the laminate is ready to become self-supporting. Touch non-critical areas and edges. If any area feels soft, you do not release. If the part was cured in a cold shop, wait longer or bring the workshop temperature into a suitable range. If the part has thick reinforced areas, treat them as the slowest part of the cure decision.
If you green-trimmed earlier, check that you left an overlap or other release aid. The source material explicitly warns not to forget this. A remaining overlap gives you something sacrificial to lever with. That matters because proper release should not require digging into the finished surface or crushing a finished edge. The bonded material also notes that thorough preparation before gelling and laminating helps the component come out of the mould relatively easily. Release difficulty is often decided before cure, by release preparation, surface preparation, and flange planning.
When release time arrives, use the overlap intelligently. Do not twist the whole part as a test. Do not pry in one small spot until something cracks. Work progressively. The bonded chunks do not provide a full release-tool procedure, so this lesson stays inside the supported principle: wait until the part is fully cured, use the sacrificial overlap you preserved, and do not ask a soft laminate to survive release loads.
After release, you can judge the moulded surface. The source material says the part should come out relatively easily if the preparations were thorough, then you can inspect whether it is defect free or spot minor defects needing repair. Small defects can be repaired by removing loose gel or fibres with a knife or file, filling with everyday automotive body filler, and sanding and buffing to a suitable finish. That repair path is for minor defects. It is not a license to demold early and repair whatever happens.
The trimming sequence after full cure
Once the component is cured and released, trimming becomes a machining and finishing task. The source material recommends cutting off spiky overlaps with tools such as a hacksaw, padsaw, jigsaw, or angle grinder with cutting disc, while remembering to cut from the gel side so the gel coat does not crack or flake. Then the edges are cleaned with a file or medium to coarse abrasive paper on a sanding block.
Tool choice matters. The mould-trimming section gives a clear warning: powered tools remove material rapidly and can grab a GFRP product as it is being cut, possibly cracking or breaking it. The author says that even for relatively small projects, hand tools are preferred despite taking more time. That is the correct mindset for a newly cured part too. A power tool can save minutes or cost you the whole moulding.
A precise trimming sequence is simple. Put masking tape along the approximate cut line on the gel coat side. Mark the cut line on the tape because tape is easier to mark than gel coat. Cut from the gel side. If the dimension is critical, do not cut directly to the final line. Cut shy of it, then file or sand precisely to the line. This gives you control and reduces the chance that a grabbed blade or wandering cut ruins the finished edge.
Wear thick gloves when handling spiky edge overlaps. The bonded material describes those overlaps as unpleasant and sharp enough to impale you. That is not decorative language. Cured glass or resin-rich fibres can be nasty at the edge. Once trimmed, remove occasional sharp resin-impregnated fibres with coarse aluminium oxide abrasive paper on a sanding block, and sand edges with coarse or medium grit paper to remove sharp corners or round edges where appropriate.
The calibration cues
A cured part gives you different feedback than a green one. At the early stage, the laminate may be semi-hard and cut cleanly with a sharp blade, but it should still be treated as too soft to release. Later, when cured, it should no longer feel soft in the hand. If it does, you wait. That tactile cue is directly supported by the bonded material and is more useful than staring at a clock.
During trimming, good technique feels controlled and boring. The saw or blade works from the gel side. The cut stays shy of the line when the dimension matters. The file or sanding block brings the edge to final size. The gel coat does not chip or flake because you cut from the correct side and did not force the tool. A powered tool that grabs, chatters, overheats, or tries to pull the part is telling you that the process is too aggressive for the workpiece or your support setup.
During post-cure or elevated temperature treatment, the absence of surface bursts, blisters, or gel damage is not luck. It usually reflects good air removal, suitable mould preparation, and a temperature that the part and mould can tolerate. If defects appear near the gel surface after heating, the bonded material gives a likely mechanism: bubbles close to the surface expanded and stressed the surrounding material. The correction for the next part is not only a different post-cure. It is also better stippling, rolling, and possibly a suitable tissue layer behind the gel coat where appropriate.
Dimensional stability is another cue. The chassis-design source warns that shrinkage and distortion can happen during curing, with heat and thick sections increasing the risk. A part that releases warped, twisted, or uneven may have been distorted by cure behavior, premature release, heat, section thickness, or mould movement. The lesson is not to diagnose every possible cause from appearance alone. The lesson is to respect cure as one of the critical manufacturing steps, especially when the part carries load or must fit accurately.
Worked example: a wet-lay-up panel in a cool workshop
Imagine you have laminated a woven glass component in a female mould late in the afternoon. The lay-up is complete, the surface looks wet and consolidated, and the edges have generous overlap. The shop temperature is on the low side of the ideal range. The wrong move is to treat evening gel as permission to pull the part before you go home.
The supported plan is to leave the component in the mould at least overnight, preferably 24 hours, and longer if the cool shop slows cure. If the laminate reaches the green stage before you leave, you may green trim selected overlapping waste with a sharp knife. You do not release it. You also do not trim every overlap away, because you need at least one overlap as a later release aid. The next day, before demolding, you touch the laminate in a non-critical area and at the edge. If it still feels soft, you allow more cure time or raise the workshop temperature in a controlled way.
Once it has fully cured, release it using the preserved overlap rather than the finished surface. After release, trim from the gel side. Use masking tape to lay out the line. If the edge is critical, cut shy of the line and finish with a file or sanding block. If you choose a power tool, you recognize the risk that it can grab the GFRP and crack or break it. The conservative intermediate move is to use hand tools unless the scale of the part genuinely demands otherwise.
This example is not glamorous, but it is the pattern that saves parts. You separate green trimming from demolding. You let the cold-shop cure run longer. You use feel as a release check. You cut from the gel side. You finish to the line instead of trying to make a perfect saw cut in one pass.
Worked example: a mould or component that will see elevated temperature
Now imagine you are preparing a wet lay-up glass or carbon mould or component that will later be post-cured or used at elevated temperature. The cure decision is no longer just about whether the part feels hard enough to handle. You must consider trapped air and mould stability.
During lay-up, your rolling and stippling have to be conscientious because any trapped bubbles can expand when heated. If a bubble sits near the surface, especially behind gel coat, the expanding air can damage or burst the surface. This means the quality of the future post-cure is already being decided while the laminate is wet. If you rush consolidation, the post-cure may reveal the defect later.
If the elevated temperature treatment will be done in the mould, the mould must already have been post-cured to at least that temperature. If the mould itself is a polyester-based wet lay-up mould, the bonded material presents 90 C as a sensible maximum even though some polyester resins can be pushed higher. The practical conclusion is that you do not heat a part inside an unproven mould and hope the mould stays stable. You qualify the mould for the temperature first.
The cure sequence is therefore staged. First, let the laminate cure normally in the mould. Second, confirm that the mould has already been post-cured for the intended temperature if the heat treatment is in-mould. Third, use only an elevated temperature the mould and resin system are meant to tolerate. Fourth, inspect the result for surface damage or distortion. If defects appear after heat, treat them as feedback about air removal, temperature, mould stability, or section thickness, not as random bad luck.
Worked example: a thicker stressed section where heat is tempting
A thicker stressed section creates the exact situation where a shortcut looks attractive and risk increases at the same time. The chassis-design source says curing is critical because resin can shrink or distort, heat can increase distortion, and thicker sections are more liable to distortion than thin shaped panels. That means the part most likely to matter structurally is also the part you should be least casual about.
Suppose you have a reinforced flat moulding with a rib or bridge structure on the back. The bonded material allows that reinforcement can be added after partial cure, and in the described case that may be easier than waiting for full cure before adding the ribs. But the moulding still needs to be left to cure afterward. Partial-cure work is not the same as final release readiness. You may be using the cure window to add a feature, but the completed reinforced moulding still needs sufficient cure before release and trimming.
The disciplined approach is to avoid piling on uncontrolled heat simply to make the schedule work. Let the resin pass through gel and cool so the reaction heat can dissipate. Maintain a suitable shop temperature. Give the thicker area enough time. When you do trim, support the part and use controlled cutting rather than a tool that can grab and crack the GFRP. The point is not slowness for its own sake. The point is that stressed or thick areas punish impatience more severely than thin cosmetic edges.
Drill: the cure-gate notebook
At your next fabrication session, run this drill on one real part and one small coupon made from the same resin and reinforcement stack. The coupon can be a small offcut or trial piece laminated at the same time. Its job is not to replace judgment on the part, but to give you a safe place to observe cure without disturbing the moulding.
The drill has four checkpoints. Checkpoint one is after gel, when the laminate has stopped behaving like wet cloth but is not ready for release. Record the time, shop temperature if you track it, and whether a waste edge or coupon can be cut cleanly with a sharp blade. If it can, you have identified a possible green-trim window. You do not release the part. Checkpoint two is overnight. Touch the coupon and a non-critical overlap on the part. If either still feels soft, record that and wait. Checkpoint three is at 24 hours. Repeat the feel check and decide whether the part is ready for release. Checkpoint four is after trimming. Record whether the gel side cut stayed clean, whether the tool grabbed, and whether filing or sanding brought the edge to the line without chipping.
Run the drill for three separate fabrication sessions, not just one. The count matters because cure behavior changes with temperature, laminate thickness, and resin handling. Your success criterion is simple: no demolding before the laminate no longer feels soft, no green-stage release, at least one preserved overlap for release, and final trim completed from the gel side with the cut finished to the line by file or sanding block where the dimension matters.
If you plan elevated temperature treatment, add one more rule to the drill. Before heating a part in the mould, write down how you know the mould has already been post-cured to at least that temperature. If you cannot answer, you do not do the heat treatment in-mould. That single note prevents a common failure: treating the part schedule as if the mould were not part of the system.
Common mistakes
Mistake one is demolding at the green stage. Green means semi-hard and cuttable, not releasable. Good looks like using the green stage only to trim waste overlap while leaving a release edge, then waiting for full cure before pulling the part.
Mistake two is using heat as a shortcut. Heat can reduce cure time, but it can also increase distortion, and trapped bubbles expand when heated. Good looks like maintaining suitable workshop temperature, following a known cure or post-cure plan, allowing reaction heat to dissipate, and respecting section thickness.
Mistake three is post-curing inside an unqualified mould. If the mould has not been post-cured to the intended temperature, the whole assembly is at risk. Good looks like post-curing the mould first to at least the temperature it will see during component cure, and using a mould material that can cope with that temperature.
Mistake four is ignoring trapped air because the part looks acceptable at room temperature. Air bubbles may become damage sources when heated. Good looks like better stippling and rolling during lay-up, attention to areas near gel coat, and conservative use of elevated temperature treatment.
Mistake five is trimming from the wrong side. Cutting from the back can crack or flake the gel coat. Good looks like cutting from the gel side, using masking tape for the line, and finishing with a file or sanding block.
Mistake six is making the final dimension with the saw. Saws wander, abrasive discs remove material quickly, and powered tools can grab GFRP. Good looks like cutting shy of a critical line and sneaking up on final size with sanding or filing.
Mistake seven is removing every overlap too early. A flush edge may look tidy, but it gives you nothing sacrificial to lever when release time comes. Good looks like preserving at least one overlap until the part is ready to come out.
Mistake eight is treating minor repair as permission for careless cure. Yes, small defects can be cleaned, filled, sanded, and buffed. But repair is not a substitute for letting the resin finish becoming structure. Good looks like using repair for genuine minor defects after proper cure, release, and inspection.
Cross-references inside this module
This lesson depends on the clean wet-lay-up lessons because cure quality is partly set before cure begins. If you leave air in the laminate, especially near the gel coat, elevated temperature can turn that air into surface damage. The rolling and stippling discipline from lay-up is therefore part of your cure discipline.
It also connects to the vacuum-bagging lesson. The bonded material defines bleeder cloth and breather fabric as materials used in vacuum moulding that help with excess resin and air removal during vacuum. This lesson does not reteach vacuum bagging, because that is a sibling topic, but the cure principle carries across: consolidation choices before and during cure affect the quality of the cured laminate.
It connects to the pressure-moulding and autoclave-capability lessons too, but the boundary is important. Pressure, vacuum, and autoclaves are process capabilities. They do not remove the need to cure before release. An autoclave is defined in the bonded material as a vessel used to cure laminates under pressure and elevated temperature. That means it raises the importance of cure planning; it does not make cure judgment optional.
When the principle has exceptions
The exception is not early demolding. The real exception is green-stage work that does not ask the part to become self-supporting. The bonded material supports green trimming because the semi-hard laminate can be cut without disrupting integrity while it is still too soft to release. It also supports adding certain reinforcing structures after partial cure in the described moulding example, because that can be easier than waiting until full cure. Both exceptions are narrow. They allow controlled work while the part remains supported. They do not allow release.
Another apparent exception is post-cure. A part can be cured enough to demold and still require a post-cure for its intended temperature service. That does not weaken the release rule. It adds a second rule: if the part or mould will later work at elevated temperature, the post-cure must be planned around air removal, mould stability, and the temperature capability of the resin and tooling. Fully cured for release and fully conditioned for elevated-temperature service are related, but they are not identical.
The final habit
At the end of a lay-up, slow down. Ask what stage the resin is in, what operation you are about to perform, and what load that operation puts into the laminate. If the operation is green trimming waste, use the green stage carefully and preserve a release edge. If the operation is release, wait for full cure. If the operation is elevated temperature treatment, confirm the mould and laminate are ready for that temperature and that trapped air has been minimized. If the operation is trimming a cured edge, cut from the gel side, control the tool, and finish to the line.
A composite part is not finished when it looks like the mould cavity. It is finished when the resin has become the structure that holds the fibres, the mould has done its job without being asked to move, and your trimming and release loads are applied only after the laminate can carry them. That is the discipline this lesson is asking you to build.
Worked example: a wet-lay-up panel in a cool workshop
You laminate the panel late in the afternoon and the shop is cooler than ideal. Leave the component in the mould at least overnight, preferably 24 hours, and longer if the laminate still feels soft. If it reaches the green stage, trim only selected waste overlap with a sharp blade and preserve at least one overlap for later release. Do not demold at the green stage. Once fully cured, release with the preserved overlap, trim from the gel side, cut shy of critical lines, and finish with a file or sanding block.
Worked example: a mould or component that will see elevated temperature
If the part or mould will be post-cured or used at elevated temperature, cure quality depends on air removal and mould stability. Trapped bubbles can expand when heated and damage the surface, especially near gel coat. The mould must already have been post-cured to at least the temperature it will see during in-mould treatment. For a polyester-based mould, treat 90 C as a sensible maximum unless the resin system and tooling plan justify otherwise.
Worked example: a thicker stressed section where heat is tempting
A thicker stressed section is exactly where cure shortcuts become risky. The chassis-design source warns that curing can shrink or distort resin, that heat can increase distortion, and that thicker sections are more liable to distortion than thin shaped panels. If reinforcement is added during partial cure, that is still not release permission. Let the assembly continue curing, allow reaction heat to dissipate, and trim only after the laminate can handle the operation.
Common mistakes
The main mistakes are demolding at the green stage, using heat as a shortcut, post-curing in an unqualified mould, ignoring trapped air before elevated temperature treatment, trimming from the wrong side, cutting directly to the final line with a saw, removing every overlap before release, and treating later repair as permission for careless cure. Good work separates green trimming from release, preserves a lever edge, waits when the laminate feels soft, cuts from the gel side, and finishes edges with controlled filing or sanding.
Drill: the cure-gate notebook
On your next three fabrication sessions, make one small coupon alongside the real part. Check it after gel, overnight, at 24 hours, and after trimming. Record whether it can be green-trimmed, whether it still feels soft, whether the part was released only after full cure, and whether the gel-side trim stayed clean. Success means no green-stage release, at least one preserved release overlap, no demolding while soft, and final trimming completed from the gel side with critical edges finished to the line.
When this principle has exceptions
The exception is controlled green-stage work while the part remains supported, not early release. Green trimming can be appropriate because the semi-hard laminate can be cut without disrupting integrity while still being too soft to release. Some reinforcing work may also be easier after partial cure. Both are narrow process windows. They do not change the release rule: the part stays in the mould until the resin has cured enough to carry release loads.
Author Review
No quiz questions are attached to this lesson.
Sources
| # | Document | Chunk | Pages | Score | Collection |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | a92a57d7-66ad-7c18-c969-cf0c0d4005e9 | 204 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 2 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 7fca5c12-4023-12dc-efb4-ec8bda41349d | 110 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 3 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | d5850b4b-c988-7659-6363-ad87c2cd3c65 | 55 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 4 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 02409dce-7e26-4dc6-57e9-f9c9d3844926 | 139 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 5 | Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design Costin Micael Phipps David | e568d447-9cfb-f481-1586-d676306d9f62 | 29 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 6 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 13ad50d9-320e-9ff6-b6a1-35cebddda495 | 111 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 7 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | b9b6d1bd-1794-9d7f-5277-2c25b91b34b6 | 95 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 8 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 1a7f05c3-17fe-8271-2a70-7a9ffe2cba35 | 152 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |