Anchor your hands so the car always has a zero

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Course: Car Control II — Race-Level Technique

Module: The Champion's Hands

Estimated duration: 60 minutes

Principle: your hands are the steering wheel's ruler.

At intermediate pace, many steering problems start before the car misses the apex. They start when your hands stop meaning anything. If your hands begin the corner at 9 and 3, then one hand slides, then the other hand crosses, then both hands creep back while the car is still loaded, you may still be physically steering, but you have lost a measuring instrument. You no longer know how much steering angle is in the car. You no longer know exactly where straight ahead is. You no longer know whether the next motion is a correction, an unwind, or another guess.

Anchored hand placement solves that. It gives the car a zero. In the default case, your hands live at 9 and 3. From there, the wheel tells you three things at once: how far you have turned, how far you still need to unwind, and where straight ahead will be when the car rotates, slides, or starts to recover. This is not about looking proper in the cockpit. It is about preserving a reference that still works when the car is busy.

The source material is direct about the default. A firm but relaxed grip at 9 and 3 is the base position. With that grip, you should be able to steer through almost every corner without moving your hands. The reason is not tradition. The reason is control. Keeping the same hand position makes steering smoother and more measured, and it lets you know how much wheel you have used. It also lets you know where straight ahead is if the car begins to rotate and you need to recover.

That last point is the heart of this lesson. A driver who loses the hand index loses the straight-ahead reference exactly when it matters most. If the car starts to spin or if the rear steps out, you need to know where the front tires are pointed. You do not want to search for zero with sliding hands. You want the wheel, your wrists, and your shoulders to tell you immediately where the car is aimed. Anchoring is how you keep that information available.

Anchor does not mean freeze. Anchor means preserve the index. Most corners can be driven from 9 and 3 with no hand movement. Some tight corners in large production-based racing sedans may not fit that range. In that case, the correct answer is not a mid-corner shuffle. The correct answer is a planned pre-index before the corner, so the steering can still be made as one deliberate action. The bonded sources give different example clock positions for a tight right-hand corner, which is a useful warning: the exact alternate clock position is car and corner dependent. The principle is stable. If the corner requires more wheel than your default grip can provide, reposition before the turn, not while the car is loaded.

Mechanism: every extra steering degree has a cost.

The front tires do not turn the car for free. When the front tires are at an angle to the road, they scrub speed. That does not mean you avoid steering. It means you treat steering angle as a scarce input. If the car can follow the line with less steering, less steering is better. If the front tires are scrubbing or squealing through a turn, the first answer is usually not more wheel. The first answer is to unwind some steering and make the car's path straighter.

Anchored hands make that possible because they show you when you have over-asked the front tires. With a stable hand index, you can feel that you turned farther than required. You can feel that the car accepted the first part of the input and then started to slide across the front. You can feel whether you are still adding steering after the car has already told you that the front tires are overloaded. Without the index, too much wheel can feel like normal cornering effort. With the index, too much wheel is obvious.

This is why the lesson is not simply about hand position. It is about steering economy. You look and think farther ahead so you can straighten the corner as much as possible. You connect turn-in, apex, and exit into one path. You feed the steering in smoothly and progressively. You unwind as soon as the car can take the exit path. The hand anchor supports all of that because it keeps the steering input measurable.

Reference points make the anchor usable.

A hand anchor by itself is not a line. You still need to know where you are asking the car to go. The bonded material names three core corner references: turn-in, apex, and exit. The turn-in is especially important because it determines the rest of the corner, including where and how fast you apex and exit. Your hands are the steering reference, but the track gives you the placement reference.

Before the braking zone, identify the corner as a sequence. Where will you begin the initial steering input. Where is the apex you want the car to pass. Where will the car be released at track-out. Those points are not only visual. They can be pavement cracks, curbing changes, pavement changes, wall markings, worker stations, bumps, or even changes in sound. The point is that you remove guesswork. The less concentration you spend deciding where the corner begins, the more concentration you can spend feeling how the car is reacting to your hands and feet.

The first steering motion should be tied to that turn-in point. If you turn in before the point, the car will usually need an early correction. If you turn in after the point, you may need too much wheel to still make the apex. If you turn at the point but turn too abruptly, you may overload the front tires before the car has accepted the cornering load. The anchored hand position lets you separate those problems. Was the point wrong, or was the hand motion wrong. Did the car need a different line, or did you simply crank in more angle than the tires could use.

Technique: the corner as an anchored sequence.

On the straight before the corner, settle the wheel at 9 and 3. Do not wait until turn-in to find your hands. The index should already be there while you are looking ahead. If a shift is required, make the shift, return the hand, and then prepare to turn. The source material allows for the obvious shifting exception, but it also emphasizes getting the hand back between gear changes. A corner entry with one hand still away from the wheel is not anchored driving.

Next, decide whether the corner fits the default grip. Most corners should. If the corner is too tight for the car's steering ratio and your default hand position, pre-index before the turn. Do this early enough that it is not part of the loaded cornering event. The goal is still one steering action. You are not giving yourself permission to shuffle your way through the middle of the corner. You are preparing the hands so the corner can be driven without sliding them around the rim.

At turn-in, both hands work together. One hand pulls while the other pushes. Neither hand dominates the wheel. This matters because a one-handed pull tends to become abrupt, and abrupt steering is exactly what the sources warn against. The steering should be fed in smoothly and progressively. You are not trying to surprise the front tires into grip. You are trying to build a gentle, smooth arc through the corner.

Once the car is turning, hold the index. The wheel angle is now information. If the car is following the intended arc, keep the input clean. If a small correction is needed, make the small correction without destroying the reference. The source material assigns small steering corrections to the wrists rather than the arms, which supports the same principle: correct without turning the whole upper body into the steering system. The sibling lesson on wrist corrections can go deeper there. In this lesson, the point is that the hand anchor keeps the correction small enough to remain readable.

Mid-corner, listen for the front tires and feel the path. If you hear or feel front scrub, do not automatically add steering. Adding steering to a front tire that is already sliding usually makes the tire work harder without changing the car's path enough to help. The supported correction is to try unwinding the steering input. Straightening the front tires can reduce scrub, recover speed, and let the car take a better exit path.

At the apex and beyond, the anchor changes from turn-in ruler to unwind ruler. From the apex out, the car should be released toward the exit. Unwind the wheel as soon as the car's path allows it, and use the road available. This is not a decorative finish to the corner. It is where the hands make room for the throttle. The bonded material links steering unwind with acceleration: as you start to unwind the steering coming out of the corner, you start to increase acceleration toward full throttle onto the straight.

The combined-input rule: more steering means less brake, and more throttle waits for less steering.

Anchored hands also keep you honest about the tire workload. Too much steering angle for the amount of braking or acceleration can push the car beyond the traction limit at one end. This can feel like a handling problem, but the source material warns that it is often technique: you asked the front or rear tires to do more than they could do.

On entry, the clean sequence is threshold braking first, then brake release as steering is added. As you reach the point where you begin turning, you ease off the brakes as you turn the steering wheel. The more you turn the wheel, the more you ease off the brakes. The hand anchor matters because it tells you how much steering you have asked for. If your hands are lost, the brake release has no steering reference. You may still be on too much brake for the amount of wheel in the car.

On exit, the reverse relationship applies. As you unwind the steering, you increase acceleration. If you add throttle while holding large steering angle, you again ask the tires to do two heavy jobs at the same time. The anchor gives you a simple checkpoint: throttle commitment should grow as the wheel comes back toward zero. If the throttle is coming in but the hands are still far from zero, expect the car to object.

This is why hand placement belongs in a race-technique module, not just a cockpit-basics module. The hands are connected to the brake release and the throttle pickup. An anchored wheel lets you match those inputs. An unanchored wheel hides the mismatch until the car understeers, oversteers, or forces a messy correction.

Sub-skill 1: same-start indexing.

Same-start indexing means each normal corner begins with the same hand-to-wheel relationship. You do not enter one corner with your right hand high, the next with your left hand low, and the next with both hands offset because you never fully unwound the previous corner. You reset to the default on the straight. Then the first steering input has a known size.

This is especially important for consistency. The sources connect reference points to concentration because reference points reduce the mental work of choosing where to act. Same-start indexing does the same thing for steering. If your hands begin in the same place every time, you can compare one lap to the next. Did you turn more on this lap. Did you turn faster. Did you have to unwind before the apex because the first input was too large. Did you release the car after the apex or hold wheel too long. Those questions only work when the hands mean the same thing each lap.

Sub-skill 2: the pre-turn range check.

Before a corner, ask whether this car and this corner can be handled from 9 and 3. In most cases, yes. If yes, leave the hands alone. If no, pre-index before turn-in. The sources make this exception narrow: some large production-based racing sedans and some very tight hairpins may require it. Do not turn the exception into a habit for every medium-speed corner.

A good pre-index is quiet. It happens before the car is loaded, and it gives you enough range to make one steering action. A bad pre-index is late and panicked. It happens as the car is already turning, which means the driver is both changing grip and asking for cornering force at the same time. That is how the zero gets lost.

Sub-skill 3: one steering action.

One steering action does not mean one rigid speed of hand movement. The sources explicitly ask you to be aware of whether you turn gently and slowly, whether you crank abruptly, whether you turn slowly at first and progressively faster, and whether you turned farther than required. One steering action means the input is planned and continuous enough that the car receives a clear request.

The opposite is a pile of disconnected hand events: turn, slide, add, catch, unwind, add again. That pattern hides the true line problem. It also makes the car react to the driver instead of the corner. Your goal is to feed in enough steering to create the required arc, then begin releasing it when the car can take the exit.

Sub-skill 4: equal-hand work.

Both hands should do an equal amount of work. One pulls while the other pushes. This keeps the input smooth and keeps your shoulders from becoming the steering mechanism. It also keeps both hands available for feedback. If one hand is passive or late, the wheel can become a lever instead of an instrument.

Equal-hand work does not require heavy grip. The sibling lesson on holding the wheel lightly enough to hear the tires handles pressure and feedback in more detail. Here, equal-hand work means the steering input is balanced. You should not be yanking the wheel down with one arm while the other hand merely rides along.

Sub-skill 5: zero recovery.

Zero recovery is the ability to find straight ahead immediately. It matters in two places. The first is ordinary corner exit, where you need to know when the car is close enough to straight to accept throttle. The second is loss of control, where a spin or slide can leave an unanchored driver unsure which way the front tires are pointed.

The source material explicitly ties same-position hand placement to knowing where straight ahead is when the car begins to spin. That is not a beginner-only issue. Intermediate drivers often create their own recovery problem by sliding the hands during the moment that demands the cleanest reference. If the wheel is anchored, straight ahead is not a mystery. It is a known place the hands return to.

Sub-skill 6: exit release.

Exit release is the habit of unwinding as soon as possible after turn-in and apex. The sources connect this with using all the road available. If you hold extra wheel while there is track available at exit, you are making the corner tighter than it needs to be. You are keeping the front tires angled and scrubbing when they could be straightening and accelerating.

The hand anchor makes exit release visible. If your hands are still turned far after the apex, the car is not released. If you are adding throttle while the hands are still far from zero, the tires are being asked for acceleration and cornering at the same time. A clean exit should feel like the hands are giving the car back to the straight while the throttle comes in.

Sub-skill 7: shift recovery before turn-in.

The bonded material includes the normal exception for shifting: one hand may leave the wheel, but it must come back between gear changes. Going Faster also shows an entry sequence where the clutch is released before turn-in, and brake pressure is relaxed after the turn-in begins. The usable lesson is simple. Do not let the shift steal the hand anchor at the moment you need steering precision.

If a downshift is part of the entry, finish the shift work early enough that both hands are available for the initial steering input. If the hand is still returning when you are already at turn-in, the corner is rushed. The wheel may still turn, but the car has not received the clean two-hand input the sources describe.

Sub-skill 8: awareness without fixation.

The source material warns against spending all conscious thought on the steering wheel while entering a turn. That is not the assignment. The assignment is relaxed awareness. You build a solid mental image of ideal steering, then notice what you actually did. The steering questions in the bonded chunk are excellent self-coaching prompts: was the turn gentle or abrupt, was it progressive, did you turn farther than required, did you unwind from the apex out, and did you release the car toward the exit.

Use those questions after the corner, not as a panic monologue during it. On track, drive the reference points. Between corners, on cool-down, or after the session, ask what your hands did. On the street, within legal limits, practice the awareness at ordinary speeds. The source material specifically supports street practice for steering awareness because enough repetition turns the pattern into a habit for the racetrack.

Calibration cues: how you know the anchor is improving.

The first cue is that straight ahead is never vague. After any normal corner, the wheel returns to a known place. If the car steps out, your hands still tell you where the front tires are pointed. You are not hunting for the center of the wheel.

The second cue is that your first steering input becomes smaller and cleaner. You no longer turn in and immediately realize you turned too much. You no longer need to unwind before the apex because you over-drove the first motion. The car accepts the turn-in and follows the intended arc.

The third cue is reduced front scrub at the same basic corner speed. The supported feedback can be felt or heard. If the front tires are squealing or scrubbing, try unwinding. When the anchor improves, you should catch that over-steer-angle state earlier, not after half the corner has already been wasted.

The fourth cue is cleaner pedal overlap. On entry, brake release matches steering addition. On exit, throttle addition matches steering unwind. If you repeatedly feel understeer while still carrying brake and adding wheel, your hands and feet are not sharing the tire budget. If you repeatedly get exit instability while adding throttle with lots of wheel still in the car, the unwind is late.

The fifth cue is better corner-to-corner memory. Because the hand position is consistent, you can compare laps. The car needed a little more steering this lap. The first input was abrupt. The unwind started later. The exit release was cleaner. That awareness is the point of the anchor. It gives you a repeatable steering language.

Failure modes: what wrong feels like.

The lost-zero failure feels like confusion. The car is rotating or sliding, and your hands are no longer a map. You may know that you need to recover, but you do not know exactly where straight ahead is. This is the most serious anchor failure because it shows up when the driver has the least spare time.

The shuffle-under-load failure feels busy. Your hands move around the wheel during the corner, but the car does not become calmer. The steering input becomes several smaller inputs stacked together, and the driver loses the ability to say how much wheel is actually in the car. The fix is to decide before the corner whether default 9 and 3 is enough. If it is enough, keep the anchor. If it is not enough, pre-index before turn-in.

The crank-and-unwind failure feels fast at the hands and slow at the car. You turn abruptly, the front tires scrub, and then you have to unwind before the apex because the car will not take the line. The source material specifically asks drivers to notice whether they cranked the wheel abruptly and whether they turned farther than required. Good looks like a progressive input that produces the arc without an early correction.

The brake-plus-wheel overload feels like entry understeer or sudden imbalance. Too much steering angle for the amount of braking can exceed the traction limit. The correction is not simply to go slower everywhere. The supported technique is to be smoother and to release brake pressure as steering angle builds. The hand anchor gives you the steering side of that equation.

The throttle-plus-wheel overload appears on exit. If you ask for acceleration before unwinding enough steering, the tires are asked for two major jobs at once. Good looks like steering unwind beginning from the apex out, with acceleration increasing as the wheel returns toward zero.

The one-handed-turn-in failure often follows a late shift. One hand is still returning from the lever when the car reaches turn-in. The steering may happen, but it is not the equal two-hand work the sources describe. Good looks like the shift completed, the hand back, the wheel indexed, and then the car turned.

The false-style failure is stubbornness. The source material is clear that a driver should not simply declare a personal steering style and keep it regardless of what works. Be aware of how you turn the wheel and adapt to the corner. If a karting background trained you to crank the steering in and then unwind quickly, do not assume that pattern belongs unchanged in the race car. The bonded material flags the difference and points you back to awareness, adaptation, and smoothness.

What this lesson does not cover.

This lesson is not about squeezing the wheel lightly enough to read tire feedback; that is the sibling light-grip lesson. It is not mainly about the wrist mechanics of micro-corrections; that is the wrist-correction lesson. It is not the full arc-building lesson, although the anchor makes one smooth arc possible. It is not the complete planned hand-break lesson, although it explains why a tight hairpin may require pre-indexing. It is not the habit-building lesson, although it gives the practice questions that make the habit worth grooving.

The skill here is narrower and more fundamental: keep the wheel indexed so the car always has a zero. If you can do that, every other steering lesson has a reference. If you cannot do that, the rest of the steering system becomes guesswork.

Worked example: a 180-degree hairpin with turn-in, apex, and exit

Picture the 180-degree hairpin from the bonded reference-point illustration. The corner has a clear turn-in, a clear apex, and a clear exit. Your job is not to make the wheel busy enough to survive the corner. Your job is to connect those three points with the least steering angle the car will accept.

On the straight, set the hands at 9 and 3 and look through the sequence. Identify the turn-in point before you arrive. Identify the apex you want, then the exit point where the car will be released. If your car can make the hairpin from the default grip, leave the hands alone. If the steering ratio or the size of the production-based car means the default grip will run out of range, pre-index before turn-in so the steering can still happen as one action.

At the turn-in point, feed in the steering progressively. Both hands work. One pulls while the other pushes. You are not trying to snap the car to the apex. You are asking the front tires to build cornering force. If the car starts to scrub across the front before the apex, do not automatically add more wheel. The supported correction is to try unwinding some steering, because the front tires may already be at too much angle to the road.

At the apex, begin thinking release. If the car is pointed toward the exit, unwind. Use the road available. As the steering comes back toward zero, acceleration can build. The success criterion is not that the driver looked dramatic. The success criterion is that the hands stayed readable, the car did not need a mid-corner shuffle, the front tires did not spend the center of the corner scrubbing, and the wheel returned toward zero as the car opened onto exit.

Worked example: the tight right-hander in a large production-based sedan

The bonded sources both allow an exception for some large production-based racing sedans in very tight hairpins. That exception matters because it separates intelligent preparation from sloppy hand movement. The problem is not that 9 and 3 is wrong. The problem is that some combinations of steering ratio, car size, and corner tightness may require more wheel than the default grip can provide.

The disciplined driver solves that before the corner. On approach, you recognize that the corner will exceed the normal hand range. Before the car is loaded, you reposition enough to make one clean steering action. Then you stop moving the hands around the rim. The corner still has an anchor. It is just a planned temporary anchor rather than the default.

This is where many intermediate drivers get the exception backward. They enter at 9 and 3, discover late that the wheel range is not enough, then slide the hands while the car is already turning. That loses the zero, adds a hand task during the highest-load phase of the corner, and makes the steering input less progressive. The better version is calm and boring: decide early, pre-index early, turn once, then unwind back toward the normal zero as the car exits.

The exact alternate clock position is not universal. The supplied chunks give different examples for a right-hand hairpin. Treat that as a reminder that the car decides the needed range. Your instructor, steering ratio, cockpit geometry, and corner radius may lead to a slightly different pre-index. The non-negotiable part is timing. If you break the default anchor, break it before the turn so the loaded corner still has a known steering reference.

Worked example: Trans-Am style trail-brake entry

The bonded material uses a Trans-Am car to make a larger point about trail braking: as you begin turning into the corner, you ease off the brakes as steering angle increases. The more you turn the wheel, the more brake pressure you release, until the car is using its cornering traction rather than asking the tire to do too much braking and turning at the same time.

Anchored hands are what make that coordination teachable. If the hands are indexed, you can feel the steering angle that is being traded against brake pressure. If the wheel is sliding around in your hands, the brake release has no clear steering reference. You may think you are being smooth with the pedal while your hands are adding more angle than the front tires can carry.

In practice, the entry should feel like one blended event. Brake hard in the straight-line phase. As the turn-in point arrives, start the steering input and begin easing brake pressure. If the car pushes across the front, check whether you increased steering faster than you released brake pressure. If the rear becomes nervous, check whether your release and steering rate were abrupt rather than progressive. The hand anchor does not replace pedal skill, but it gives the pedal skill a scale.

On exit, the same relationship reverses. As the wheel unwinds, throttle comes in. A clean anchored exit is easy to recognize because the hands are moving toward zero while the right foot is asking for more acceleration. If the right foot is asking early while the hands are still far from zero, the driver is spending more tire budget than the car may have.

Worked example: manual downshift before turn-in

The Going Faster entry sequence in the bonded material shows the shift work finishing before the cornering work takes over. The clutch is released, then the car turns in, then brake pressure is relaxed. You do not need to turn that into a universal shifting doctrine to extract the hand lesson. The hand lesson is that the steering anchor must be back before the turn-in demand arrives.

A common intermediate error is to let the shift occupy the hands too long. The driver brakes, moves the lever, releases the clutch late, and reaches the turn-in point with the hand still returning. The car then receives a one-handed or half-set steering input. Even if the car makes the corner, the driver has given away the equal-hand control and known-zero reference that the steering sources emphasize.

The cleaner sequence is earlier and calmer. Finish the shift task while the car is still in the straight-line phase. Return the hand to the wheel. Reestablish the index. Then turn in with both hands doing equal work. If the corner also requires trail braking, release brake pressure in relation to the steering angle you are actually adding. The key is not hero speed with the lever. The key is that the shift never steals the wheel's zero at turn-in.

Common mistakes and what good looks like

Mistake 1: treating 9 and 3 as a pose. The driver puts the hands in the right place on the straight, then abandons the index as soon as the corner becomes difficult. Good looks like using 9 and 3 as an information system. The hands tell you steering angle, unwind amount, and straight-ahead position.

Mistake 2: shuffling after the car is loaded. The driver discovers mid-corner that more range is needed, then slides hands around the rim while the tires are already loaded. Good looks like deciding before the corner. Most corners stay at 9 and 3. Tight exceptions get a planned pre-index before turn-in.

Mistake 3: cranking the wheel at turn-in. The driver adds steering abruptly, the front tires scrub, and the car must be unwound before the apex. Good looks like a progressive steering input that builds the arc without surprising the front tires.

Mistake 4: using more steering to fix front scrub. The driver hears or feels front tire scrub and adds more wheel. Good looks like testing the opposite correction: unwind some steering, straighten the front tires, and let the car recover speed and direction.

Mistake 5: holding steering too long after the apex. The car is past the middle of the corner, but the hands are still far from zero. Good looks like releasing the car toward the exit and using the available road so throttle can increase as steering unwinds.

Mistake 6: turning in with the shift hand missing. The driver finishes the gear change too late and begins the corner without both hands ready. Good looks like shift complete, hand back, wheel indexed, then turn-in.

Mistake 7: confusing personal style with effective technique. The driver keeps the same hand pattern regardless of what the corner and car need. Good looks like relaxed awareness: know the ideal image, notice what you actually did, and adapt the steering method to the corner.

Drill: the zero-anchor audit

Run this drill at your next event over three sessions. The goal is not to set a lap time. The goal is to make the steering wheel's zero impossible to lose.

Session 1 is the awareness session. For the first four laps at a comfortable pace, drive every normal corner from 9 and 3. Do not chase speed. After each corner, ask one question: did the first steering input stay readable from turn-in to apex. On the cool-down lap, name two corners where the anchor stayed clean and two corners where your hands became busy. Success for Session 1 is awareness, not perfection. You should be able to describe where the zero was lost.

Session 2 is the one-action session. Choose two medium corners and one tighter corner. In the medium corners, keep the default anchor and make one progressive steering action. In the tighter corner, decide before turn-in whether default 9 and 3 is enough. If it is not enough, pre-index before the car is loaded, then make one steering action without sliding your hands mid-corner. Success for Session 2 is no surprise hand movement after turn-in.

Session 3 is the pedal-match session. Use the same corners. On entry, notice whether brake release matches steering addition. If you add more wheel, brake pressure should be easing. On exit, notice whether throttle increases as steering unwinds. Success for Session 3 is a clean relationship: more steering with less brake on entry, and more throttle with less steering on exit.

After the event, write a short debrief. Do not write general praise or blame. Write corner names or numbers and hand facts. Example categories are clean default anchor, needed planned pre-index, lost zero during shift, over-turned before apex, or held wheel too long after apex. The next event's goal is to reduce the lost-zero categories, not to think harder about your hands during every corner.

When this principle breaks down

The principle does not break down when the corner gets hard. That is when it matters. What breaks down is the idea that one default hand clocking fits every car and every corner. The bonded sources preserve the default while allowing a narrow exception for very tight hairpins in large production-based racing sedans. If the car physically cannot make the corner from 9 and 3, you must plan a different hand index before the corner.

It also breaks down if you treat the anchor as a rigid upper-body brace. The sources call for smooth, progressive wheel movement and equal work from both hands. Anchoring is not a command to lock the elbows or overpower the wheel. It is a command to preserve the steering reference.

Finally, it breaks down if you make hand awareness the whole mental task. The bonded material warns that staring mentally at your steering technique during corner entry is not the goal. Build the habit in practice. Ask the awareness questions before, during quiet moments, and after driving. On the hot lap, drive the reference points and let the anchored hands do their job.

Author Review

No quiz questions are attached to this lesson.

Sources

#	Document	Chunk	Pages	Score	Collection
1	Ultimate Speed Secrets - Ross Bentley	228f4e46-df46-dd8e-5890-6e7a7a805e23	30	1	uio_books_raw_v1
2	Speed Secrets Professional Race Driving Techniques Ross Bentley	c11c3ab7-fef0-2368-9f79-8a336736edba	11	1	uio_books_raw_v1
3	Ultimate Speed Secrets - Ross Bentley	7fd6b078-6941-a76f-4a7f-e65d1c4db8a1	229	1	uio_books_raw_v1
4	Ultimate Speed Secrets - Ross Bentley	20ae764d-6a52-d427-b41d-bd707d080b43	157	1	uio_books_raw_v1
5	Ultimate Speed Secrets - Ross Bentley	8a59dd5c-bd92-7571-3b97-879bd28ffbf5	109	1	uio_books_raw_v1
6	Going Faster Mastering the Art of Race Driving - Carl Lopez	c064268a-5a02-48d2-2ad4-15b4bb05a6dc	114	1	uio_books_raw_v1